Universal Geneve Golden Shadow ref. 166131 NOS (1970)

This Universal Geneve comes from a historic Italian jeweller that was once an official UG dealer. It is in new old stock condition, from the 70s, still on its original strap and gold plated UG buckle.

What we love: the mesmerising tone of the blue dial, changing according to the light.

Put it next to a Patek Philippe Ellipse and most people would struggle to tell them apart, and the similarity is not only in the oval case. Inside is the caliber 2-66, UG’s microrotor automatic only around 2.5mm thick, with the rotor set within the movement rather than on top of it. That is what keeps the case at just 6.2mm. When Patek later introduced its own microrotor, the caliber 240, the two movements looked remarkably alike.

The blue sunburst dial moves from bright navy to almost black depending on the light. Over the decades the 18k yellow gold has oxidised into a warm tone that reads almost like rose gold on the wrist.

The watch has been regulated and it runs perfectly. It comes with a timegrapher report showing amplitude, rate, and beat error, proof of its mechanical health, plus a one-year warranty on the movement.